“What do acids do in skincare?” and “What’s the difference between AHA, BHA, and PHA?” are some of the most common questions dermatologists hear today.
Although the word acid may sound harsh, these ingredients — when used correctly — are among the most effective ways to achieve smooth, clear, and radiant skin.
Acids work by gently dissolving dead cells on the skin’s surface and promoting renewal from within.
Our skin naturally renews itself every 28–30 days, but aging, sun exposure, stress, and pollution slow that process down.
By reactivating it, acids help reveal healthier, fresher skin underneath — making them a cornerstone of modern dermatological skincare.
The Science Behind Acids in Skincare
Acids don’t “burn” the skin as many believe; instead, they perform what dermatologists call chemical exfoliation.
While physical scrubs remove dead cells through friction, acids work on a microscopic level — loosening the bonds between old skin cells so they can shed naturally.
The results are visible and measurable:
- A smoother, more even texture
- Brighter, glowing skin tone
- Fewer clogged pores and breakouts
- Increased hydration and elasticity
- However, not all acids act the same way.
Each type — AHA, BHA, and PHA — has unique properties, making it suitable for different skin types and concerns.
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): Surface Renewal
AHAs are water-soluble acids that work primarily on the skin’s outer layer (epidermis).
They are ideal for dry, dull, or uneven skin tones and are widely used to restore radiance.
Common AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and citric acid.
AHAs gently remove dead cells, improve the skin’s ability to retain moisture, and help fade dark spots over time.
With consistent use, they can soften fine lines and create a smooth, luminous complexion.
Because they increase sun sensitivity, daily use of broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is essential when incorporating AHAs into your routine.
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids): Deep Cleansing
BHAs are oil-soluble acids, which means they can penetrate into pores and remove excess sebum and impurities.
This makes them ideal for oily, acne-prone, or blackhead-prone skin.
The most common BHA is salicylic acid, a powerful ingredient known for its ability to clear clogged pores and reduce inflammation.
BHA not only exfoliates the surface but also cleans deep within the pores, helping prevent breakouts and reduce shine.
Its anti-inflammatory properties make it a go-to treatment for acne, enlarged pores, and uneven skin texture.
Dermatologists recommend starting with BHA two or three times per week and avoiding simultaneous use with other potent actives like retinol or vitamin C to prevent irritation.
PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids): Gentle and Hydrating
PHAs are often referred to as the “next-generation” acids — they provide all the exfoliating benefits of AHAs but with far less irritation.
Their larger molecular size allows them to work more slowly, making them ideal for sensitive or reactive skin.
Examples include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
PHAs not only remove dead cells but also attract moisture and strengthen the skin barrier.
They have antioxidant properties, calm inflammation, and improve texture without causing redness or peeling.
People with rosacea, eczema, or dry skin often tolerate PHAs much better than other acids.
Choosing the Right Acid for Your Skin
Each acid has a distinct role:
- AHA is best for dry, dull, or uneven skin.
- BHA is ideal for oily, acne-prone, or congested skin.
- PHA suits sensitive, barrier-compromised, or redness-prone skin.
- That said, skin tolerance varies greatly.
The best results come from a personalized approach — starting with low concentrations and adjusting based on how your skin responds.
Consulting a dermatologist before introducing acids is always the safest choice.
How to Use Acids Safely
Acids are powerful allies when used wisely — but overuse can lead to dryness and irritation.
If you’re new to acids, follow the “less but consistent” rule.
Start once or twice a week and gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
Always apply moisturizer afterward, preferably one containing ceramides, niacinamide, or hyaluronic acid, to reinforce the skin barrier.
And never skip sunscreen — acids increase sun sensitivity, making SPF protection non-negotiable.
Avoid combining acids with strong actives like retinol, benzoyl peroxide, or high-strength vitamin C in the same routine.
Alternate them on different days to prevent irritation.
Acids are one of dermatology’s most valuable tools for achieving smooth, radiant, and healthy skin.
When chosen wisely — AHA for glow, BHA for clarity, PHA for calm — they can transform your skin’s texture and tone.
But remember, every skin is unique.
The right acid, used correctly, renews the skin; the wrong one, overused, can damage it.
Balance is key — always.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Are acids safe for the skin?
Yes. When used correctly and in proper concentrations, acids gently exfoliate, smooth, and brighten the skin without harm.
2. What’s the difference between AHA, BHA, and PHA?
AHA works on the surface, BHA cleans deep inside pores, and PHA offers gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin.
3. How often should I use acid-based products?
Start with once or twice a week, increasing gradually as your skin builds tolerance.
4. Do I need to moisturize after using acids?
Absolutely. Moisturizing helps rebuild the skin barrier and prevent dryness or sensitivity.
5. Can I use acids in summer?
Yes — as long as you wear broad-spectrum sunscreen daily. SPF is essential for anyone using chemical exfoliants.
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